Monday, August 16, 2010

The 2 days in between the mountains and the jungle where we were gonna spend the second week was spent going to Lake Titicaca the first day. Here we spent some time on a man made floating island Uros, which was a real eye opener in the novelty factor. The islands made of reed and mud actually had inhabitants, it has to be seen to be appreciated. We spent the day in our boat and headed back around sunset back to the city of Puno. Took the bus back to Cucsco. Said our goodbyes to the rest of our friends and it was down to me and Priya now, felt kinda alone after 10 days of having people around us, but we were looking forward to Manu so it was back to chilling in Cusco. After spending a day in Pisaq, which has a very impressive ruin site also and doing a short trek there, we left the next day and drove down to the cloud forest. The drive from the heights of Cusco to the sea level of the Peruvian Rainforest was 8hrs long and had various aspects to it. I had no clue to what the cloud forest meant till I actually saw it from a height above at the Manu biosphere reserve entry point, also saw the capuccin monkey and also various rainforest birds along the way. We left the sun behind once we came down and welcomed the humidity and the mosquitoes. We then took the boat, which would be our means of transport for the next 5 days and went down the Madre De Dios river to the depths of the jungle where we would have many eventful experiences.

We were introduced to the jungle by Carlos, fittingly since over the course of the next 5 days we came to know how lucky we were to have a guide like Carlos. He was born in the jungles and has studied it, so his knowledge is vast only surpassed by his joie de vivre. The sojourn on the boat was a long and eventful one, we gradually got into the Manu preserve on the endless river. Saw everything from giant tarantulas, capybaras, caymans, snakes and many different kinds of monkeys (red howler, green squirrel, spider, woolly, brown capuccin) and we saw one jaguar. The jungle walks in the day were mostly uneventful but for a few sightings and information that Carlos used to render upon us. The night walks were a whole different story, the jungle comes alive at night so they say, and every sound feels heightenened and sends shivers down your spine at times. One night we did a beach jungle walk and upon seeing some caymans Carlos decided that we walk towards them, which is in contrast to every thing you have ever learnt when you see a alligator in the dark, the gist of which is to run as far away as possible. The caymans are quite shy so they slinked away in the dark of the night, didn't know what we would have done if they had started approaching us but thankfully we never had to make that decision. The night walks were simply brilliant though since if you ever came upon a clearing the southern hemisphere night sky was illuminated in what felt like a million stars, just an amazing view. We struggled at times with the humidity and the mosquitoes, but the adventure and the pure adrenaline of living in the jungle, without electricity if I may add, got us over the hump.

After 5 days we flew out of Manu after bidding adieu to the rest of the boat crew, on our own flight to Cusco, where we would spend another couple of days shopping and taking in the sights of the city some more. By this time with the tanning, I started to look exactly like a Peruvian, not that I cared because I had a ball in this country. We then headed out rather wistfully to our home in the States via Lima. The city of Lima is huge and bustling like any metropolis, does not have the romanticism of Cusco but we took in the sights of the Plaza de Armas in the few hours that we had. Finally caught the flight out to Houston from Lima, we had some souvenirs from the stores in Cusco, but after 16 days I felt like the greatest souvenir that I would take are the indelible memories that this country had left me with.
Wow its been 2 years since I put pen to paper so to speak metaphorically (more like hand to keyboard) anyways needed to recount some amazing memories from Peru, my new favorite place of all time. Spent 2 weeks in the Latin part of the world and each day was brilliant, except for one day in the jungle when the mosquitoes, heat and humidity got to us but that's all fine print.
Anyways will try to recount some lasting memories and impressions. First couple of days was spent getting acclimatized to life in Cusco, visiting marketplaces trying to get in the food and meet up with school friends after like forever. Did a couple of activities too, SaschayWaman, where we got jibbed for the passes (fricking 60 soles) but the ruins are nice. The second day was spent in the Maras and Moray ruins, where we went mountain biking, quite exhilarating at times, maybe too much so for some people. The ruins were beautiful perfectly circular and a lot of terraces, we thought it was an amphitheater although it turned out to be an agricultural thing by the Incas. Apparently it was built so they could explore the soil levels at different levels and grow different crops at these levels, highly sceptical whether this would have worked, the little knowledge that I know naysays the Incas. Whatever worked for them I guess.

The biking was steep and the vistas were beautiful, the moutains are tropical similar to the Sahyadris. The greenery was quite becoming. We made it back safe and sound without any injuries mostly other than Shyam's ankle sprain, which ironically came off the bike. All set now for the Great Incan trail, got ready with the clothes etc, that we needed for this trail. Got going early the next morning and spent 4 great days upto the climax of the lost Incan City, Macchu Picchu.

To summarize the hike, Day 1 warmup, started from the train station and the highlights were the Lacta Pacta ruins and another ruins which was debatable if it was Incan or not. Second day was the hardest it was a straight up climb from 3100 to 4200 masl (10,000 to 13,500 ft). It was brutal and energy sapping, not for no reason is it called Dead Puma's (Woman's) pass, depending on whom you ask. After that headed down to the campsite where as usual the porters had our tents ready and were preparing food. More to follow where I comment on the luxuries you are afforded for such a hike. Day 3 had the prettiest vistas of them all, where you first climbed some more and then there were the Peruvian flats, which is basically trails that go up and down randomly. It was fine and dandy but a long day nevertheless. We also saw the Macchu Picchu mountain and though we were at a higher elevation saw nothing of the Lost City. Truly remarkable that this city remained hidden amid the plundering of the Conquistadors. I did probably my favorite off the trail screwing around of all time, when we stopped for a break and I went and climbed up some other peak, it was absolutely awesome, felt like I was bushwhacking because the trail was overrun with heavy shrubs and trees but I finally got up to the peak that I had seen from far away. Coming back was worse because I could not see the trail fell down about 5 ft twisted my ankle in the process but it was more than worth it. The feeling of uniqueness and exhilaration was mind blowing.

Finally the big day, day 4 when we would get to see the city shrouded in mystique and glory, nominated as one of the wonders of the world. We got up at 4am said good bye to some of the hardest working people on the planet, our porters, the stuff they carry up that unforgiving trail is awe inspiring, from meal tables, chairs, tents, to all the food for the 4 days. The hiking we do with our backpacks seems all too run of the mill. Got to sun gate before sunrise, and finally got a glimpse of Macchu Picchu in the dark, not quite as breathtaking as I imagined, but it grew on me gradually. The sun came out and lit the city and finally we got to see it in all its splendor, we walked down to the ruins and explored it along with our guides who was yakking away as he had done the past 4 days. It was informative in parts but I used to space out way too often, which is probably a hearkening to my engineering days. After a quick steep hike up to HuaynaPicchu, where the views from above are vertigo inducing and truly 360 degrees, we made our way down to Aguas Calientes. We took the train, bus back to Cusco that night and thus ended our sojourn down the Great Incan Trail. All in all a hike more than worth doing with all the desired characteristics, its hard, has brilliant and breathtaking views and also encompasses so many different things to see and do that it leaves you with lasting memories.